B
Belt loops
A series of fabric looped around the waist band that holds a belt and the 3rd offset belt loop is meant for a faster extraction of belts.
Broken twill (BT)
A twill that is intentionally reversed at every two warp ends to form a random design. As a result, the natural torque characteristic of regular twill weaves is reduced, eliminating the leg twist effect.
Button-fly
A fastener positioned in front of the pants that uses the combination of three buttons to secure.
C
Chain stitch
A looped stitch closely resembling the links of a chain that is most prominently used for hemming and our pocket lining style detailing.
Chambray
A plain woven fabric often woven in checkered or striped patterns using indigo warp to create a fabric that looks similar to denim, yet is much lighter.
Coin pocket
The fifth pocket, strictly functional. It sits inside the right front pocket and justifies the term five-pocket jeans. Was first put on jeans for mine workers to put in small gold they find.
Cotton
A vegetable fibre collected from the cotton plant and has been used to create textiles for over 7,000 years. When spun into yarn, it creates a smooth, strong thread valued for its absorbency, durability, and color retention.         
D
Denim
A type of fabric material comprised of blue cotton warp and white cotton filling. Usually in a 3x1 weave construction.
Doughnut button
A favorite during WWII because it used slightly less metal to hold the button in place, a necessity during wartime rationing. They are named as such due to the “donut hole” opening found at their center.
Dry denim
A type of denim that has been untreated with any kind of washing or treatments that would affect it’s rigidness and color.
Duck
A type of canvas or plain weave fabric that is created with a tight weave that allows for it’s water and wind resistance. Origins from the dutch word ‘doek’, meaning linen canvas.
E
Embroidery
A craft of decorating fabric with needlework and threadwork in shaping letters and/or ornaments.
Extra long staple (ELS) cotton
Refers to cotton which has staples more of 1 3/8” in length. Such as sea island, Giza, and pima cotton.
F
Fabric weight
            See Weight.
Felled seam
A seam made by placing one edge inside a folded edge of fabric, then stitching the fold down to let us have a cleaner finished product inside out.
Flasher
A paper flap attached to the right back pocket of our jeans that we use to communicate the differences in material, styles and details on the pair.
G
Garment dye
A dyeing process performed on finished garments. As opposed to yarn dyeing.
H
Handwoven
Fabric weaved not using any machineries. Made on a hand operated loom,
Hemming
A finish to a fabric’s cut edge that involves folding them and sewing them in. Used most as a term that refers to shortening a jeans leg opening hem.
Herringbone
A weave in which twill warp stripes are created by running twills in different directions. It has a distinctive V shaped pattern that resembles a herring’s skeleton.
Honeycomb
The fade area behind the knee of your jeans that fades in a honey-comb like shape during the wear process.
I
Indigo
A type of dye used to color denim to give it’s blue color. Traditionally, indigo dye was taken naturally from plants but now most of the dye is produced synthetically.
Inseam
In relation to jeans, it denotes the length of the pant’s inner leg from the crotch to the leg opening.
J
Jeans
A style of pants manufactured with two back patch pockets, two front lined pockets, one smaller pocket located inside one of the two front pockets and usually is dyed with indigo.

L
Laurel leaf
A symbol used to award victory, a successful triumph, and used by soldiers during the WW2 on their garment’s hardware as a symbol of bravery.
Left hand twill (LHT)
A style of weaving where the lines of grain run from the top-left hand-corner of the fabric towards the bottom-right hand-corner. Jeans that uses left-hand twill fabrics generally have a softer feel, especially after washing them.
Leg opening
This refers to the width of the the very bottom hem of the jeans. For example, a size 29 Iron Tail jeans have an leg opening of 17.5 cm, while Warbonnet of the same size have a leg opening of 20 cm.
Leg twist
The inclination of right hand twills or left hand twills to “twist” in the direction of the weave. This creates jeans with pant legs that skew to the right or left, an effect easily noticed in the outer seams.
Lining
Refers to the piece of fabric used for front pockets and for the fabric reinforcement inside the backpocket.
Loom
A loom is a frame or machine used to weave fabric. It works by stretching warp yarns on a frame, through which weft yarns are then threaded.
Loomstate
Fabrics that has not been treated in any way after finishing it’s weaving process. That includes the sanforized process, washing, and finishings such as flat finish. This results usually in a hairy fabric full of texture and stiffness.
M
Mercerization
It used for keeping dye on the surface of the yarns or fabrics and to prevent dyes from fully penetrating the fibres.
N
Natural indigo
Indigo coloring extracted from the plant, including the famous Indigofera. The colors gathered from natural dyes, while rich, are usually much softer than those obtained from synthetic dyes.
O
One wash
A process done to unsanforized denim in order to present a shrunk product without going through a sanforized process.
Open end
Non selvedge denim. The most common type of denim.
Overdye
A process where the fabric is dyed for a second time. Similar to garment dye, but in this case the garment has been colored and not neutral in color.
Overlock stitch
A kind of stitch that sews over the edge of one or two pieces of cloth for edging, hemming, or seaming.
Oz. (Ounce)
See Weight.

P
Peek-a-boo
A tweak on the traditional coin pocket on a pair of jeans that pulls out a bit of it’s selvedge line to show, hence the name.
Pima cotton
Cotton with a long fibre length (1 3/8?-1 5/8?) that is quite luxurious. A beautiful quality of cotton with a very soft hand feel, it is only second best to Sea Island and Egyptian cotton fibre.
R
Raw denim
Also known as dry or unwashed denim, is denim that has not undergone any of the usual washing and distressing processes. Raw denim allows you to personalize pair of the pants to your unique shape, with creases and fade marks forming to your body type.
Right hand twill (RHT)
A style of weaving where the lines of grain run from the top-right hand-corner of the fabric towards the bottom-left hand-corner. The right hand twill is the most common twill used in denim.
Ring ring denim
A denim weave whereby both the warp and the weft threads are made of ring-spun yarn. The result is a much softer and textured hand than both open-end and regular ring-spun denim.
Ring spun
Ring-spun yarn creates unique surface characteristics in the fabric, such as unevenness, giving jeans an irregular authentic vintage look. Greater strength and softness is also achieved.
Rivet
A metal accessory that is usually made from copper and used to reinforce stress points.
Roping
A fade that appears on the hem of your jeans, caused by the pulled felled fabric that has been stitched, worn, and washed.
Run-off
Threads that extends it’s function from the garment, usually found in on the hem of a shirt. Was first introduced as a faster production technique where they did not cut the threads in between pieces when stitching when.
S
Sanforized
The process of pre-shrinking a fabric so to a limit the residual or further shrinkage of the fabric to less than 1%. This sanforization process involves the stretching of the fabric before it is washed, which helps to prevent shrinkage.
Selvedge
This refers to the white edge of a piece of fabric that secures the edge of the fabric and prevents unraveling. Selvedge denim are made out of denim woven on an old-style shuttle loom with a continuous weft and a narrow width (usually around thirty inches).
Shell stitch
Originally a crochet knit technique used as a variation of the traditional basket weave. Now used as a more decorative means to replace overlock stitching in doing hems and seams.
Shuttle
In vintage shuttle looms, it is the device that carries the weft yarn across the loom.  One unique characteristic of shuttle looms from modern, mass-producing looms is that they can create a finished edge, also known as a selvedge.
Single needle stitch
Commonly known as the lock stitch. neater and cleaner because there are fewer visible stitches. Also, with double-needle, the little space in between the two rows can pucker with repeated washings. Single needle stitched seams tend to look cleaner over time and press up nicer.
Slub
Areas in a length of yarn than are abnormally thick/thin due to uneven spinning. Once considered flaws, but is now sometimes purposely added to yarns to give the finished woven material more texture and character.
T
Tab
The small piece of fabric sewn in between the back pocket and the body part of the pants. It is the small recognizable symbol that embodies our brand.
Tapered
A narrowing of width in pants from the top to bottom, generally from the knees down.
Train tracks
A fade area that refers to the outseam of your jeans. It is a fade that appears because of the open seam construction on the outseams.
Twill
A diagonal structural design of textile weave as well as the cloth created from that weave process.
W
Warp
A construction of yarn in which the lengthwise and vertical yarns are carried over and under the weft. This type of warn is comprised of more twist than weft yarns and deal with more stress in the weaving process. This is the part that runs parallel to the selvage part of the fabric.
Waist
A feature that usually directly refers to the size of the pair. Also it holds up the pair on your body / waist.
Washer-burr rivet
A two piece rivet set what keeps two or more pieces of fabric together. Washer is the male part and burr is the female part of the set.
Weave
The composition of yarns woven together to produce a design and varies on the number of warps and wefts. There are many different types of weaves depending on the style of garment.
Weft (Woof)
A construction in yarn in which the lengthwise, selvage to selvage horizontal is carried over and under the weft. In contrast to warp, this yarn has less twists and therefore less strain.
Weight
How much a yard square of fabric weighs in ounces (Oz.).
Whisker
Refers to thin fading lines formed from creases that are usually found on the front pocket area of jeans. Also known as hige.
Y
Yarn
A long, continuous length of spun fibers.
Z
Zip-fly
Developed as an alternative to button-fly it is the style of fastening jeans around the waist that uses a zipper instead of buttons.
#
42300G
This refers to the Union Special machine spefically for hemming your jeans and creating a famously known for roping effect.